Madder – Rubia Tinctorum 225g (8 oz.) Fashion Style For Sale

Madder – We carry two types of madder Rubia tinctorum (Dyer’s madder) and Rubia cordifolia (Indian madder). We also carry an extract named Madder Rich. Madder is one of the oldest known dyestuffs. It is used to produce turkey reds, mulberry, orange-red, and terracotta. In combination with other dyes madder can give crimson, purple, rust, browns, and near blacks. Madder is cultivated throughout India, south east Asia, Turkey, Europe, south China, parts of Africa, Australia and Japan. Madder is a complex dyestuff containing many colourants. By manipulating mordanting, pH, and temperature a range of shades can be obtained. There are many historic recipes including one from Turkey which brings out the purpurin from madder resulting in a purple.

Mordanting: Use alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibres. For cellulose, first mordant with tannin at 8% WOF, then either 1) use alum at 15% with soda ash at 2% or 2) use aluminum acetate at 8%.  For deep brick reds on cellulose choose the aluminum acetate at 8%.

Dyeing with the extract: Use at 3-8% WOF for a medium depth of shade. To achieve reds and avoid browns keep the dyebath under 180°F (82°C).

Dyeing with the powdered roots: Madder is dyed at 35-100% WOF for a medium to dark depth of shade. Madder develops to its deepest and richest reds in hard water – water containing calcium and magnesium is ideal. If the water is soft add calcium carbonate (a single Tum’s tablet to 4 litres of water works well). Add dye material to dye pot and cover with water. Bring up to about 60ºC (140ºF) and hold for an hour. Add fibres and continue cooking for another 1-2 hours.

Rubia tinctorium Alizarin is the primary dye molecule, it gives the famous warm Turkey red colour. Also present are munjistin, purpurin, and a multitude of yellows and browns.  For clear reds of rubia tinctorium do not let the temperature go above 72ºC (160ºF). At higher temperatures the browns of this madder plant come out and dull the colour.

Rubia cordifolia Munjistin is the primary dye molecule, it gives the famous reds found in Indian chintz and painted cottons. Also present in the roots are small quantities of alizarin, purpurin, as well as many yellows and browns. Rubia cordifolia is not as affected by high temperature. The madder dyebath can be reused two or three times for lighter shades.

Options: Madder, in combination with cochineal yields a true red, with iron yields garnet, bright orange with alum and cream of tartar, brick red with alum mordant and a higher heat (cordifolia only), the addition of acetic acid or vinegar plus iron will push the colour to a rich brownish-purple.

Note: Spent madder pulp may be used as a reducing agent for an indigo vat (see our indigo instructions).

**Using Madder for Dyeing**:
– **Mordanting**: For protein fibres, use alum mordant at 15% WOF. For cellulose, first mordant with tannin at 8% WOF, then you can either use alum at 15% with soda ash at 2% or aluminum acetate at 8%. If you want deep brick reds on cellulose, choose the 8% aluminum acetate.
– **Dyeing with the extract**: Use it at 3 – 8% WOF for a medium – depth shade. To get reds and avoid browns, keep the dyebath under 180°F (82°C).
– **Dyeing with the powdered roots**: Madder is dyed at 35 – 100% WOF for a medium to dark shade. It develops its deepest and richest reds in hard water (water with calcium and magnesium is ideal). If the water is soft, add calcium carbonate (a single Tum’s tablet to 4 litres of water works well). Put the dye material in the pot and cover with water. Heat it to about 60ºC (140ºF) and hold for an hour. Then add the fibres and cook for another 1 – 2 hours.

**Differences between Rubia Tinctorium and Rubia Cordifolia**:
– In Rubia Tinctorium, alizarin is the main dye molecule that gives the famous warm Turkey red color. There are also munjistin, purpurin, and many yellows and browns. Don’t let the temperature go above 72ºC (160ºF) for clear reds, or the browns will come out and dull the color.
– In Rubia Cordifolia, munjistin is the main dye molecule that gives the reds found in Indian chintz and painted cottons. There are small amounts of alizarin, purpurin, and many yellows and browns. Rubia Cordifolia is not as affected by high temperature. The madder dyebath can be reused two or three times for lighter shades.

**Options for Different Colors**:
– Madder combined with cochineal makes a true red, with iron it gives garnet, bright orange with alum and cream of tartar, brick red with alum mordant and a higher heat (for cordifolia only), and adding acetic acid or vinegar plus iron will make the color a rich brownish – purple.

**Note**: You can use the spent madder pulp as a reducing agent for an indigo vat (see our indigo instructions). For more in – depth info on natural dyes, check out our Guide to Natural Dyes available on naturaldyes.ca. It’s also available as a Printable PDF. Larger sizes of natural dyes are priced at wholesale rates, and our rates get more discounted as the size increases.